It started with the original Simplicity 2172 pattern pieces cut to my size; the 3 lining pieces and the front panel (6, 7, 10, and 1). I used them exactly as they were in my gold polyester fabric to adjust the fit before adding any changes.
|This is my fabric cut out and ready to sew.|
|I just used the original directions and sewed them all together|
|Here is the much better fitting result.|
|I did a closer shot of the strap seam.|
|The temporary corset back was made with safety pins lined vertically to stand in for the grommets.|
Then came the most difficult part. I lopped off the tail of the jacket after deciding at what point the skirt should start and adding extra room for the seam allowance.
|The bottom of the vest with the sides pinned in place for marking as the lacing will not extend beyond the skirt seam.|
The tail of this waistcoat took a lot of trial and error. It started with the leftover remnants cut off from the test fit. The original skirt is large and flat, and the new one was planned with huge pleats. Having never drafted pleats, I used the internet as my guide. The main consensus seemed to be make the shape you want the final pattern to take when fully folded. Divide it into sections based on how wide you want the pleats, and add the extra fabric for the depth of the pleat between the slices.
So I cut out a slice of fabric that would be one half of the skirt to make piece A.
Then I played with a separate piece of fabric to determine how much extra to add between the folds.
Once it looked right, I cut off everything but the pleat itself,
ironed the fold,
and cut off the top portion of the fold to leave me with a template for the fold depth. Piece B
Back to piece A; it got cut into panels the where the pleats would go. These were numbered so I could reassemble them in order.
The first panel was small since it will be doubled by sewing the other side of the skirt. Then the other panels went around the waistline with a slight radiating effect. This would made my pattern difficult to match up later.
1A, B, 2A, B, 3A, B, 4A, B, 5A, B, 6A, B, 7
Here I ended up regretting the pretty radiating cuts that made each of the number As slightly thinner towards the top. It meant that B needed to be fitted in awkwardly for each one as I tried to keep the top of the waistline straight and connect the bottom of the As smoothly.
This is also where I realized that the width of the finished pattern would be too wide for my fancy jacquard fabric. So I had to shrink B to accommodate that.